A Short History of Albion, California |
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In 1835 English sea captain William Richardson erected the first
building at San Francisco (then known as Yerba Buena). He later
climbed the social ladder by marrying the daughter of the
Mexican Commandant of "Yerba Buena". In 1845 the Mexicans
awarded Richardson a land grant covering the vast territory
between the Garcia River and Big River. (encompassing the land
between the present-day towns of Elk and Mendocino)
Richardson settled in the middle and called the place Albion
after his English homeland's ancient name (Latin for white - as
in the white cliffs of Dover). He built a house and sawmill by
1853. (He built the first mill to begin operation along the
Redwood Coast.) His first mill that was built on the river's
narrow estuary, was powered by a tide-driven water wheel. This
clever design allowed the mill to operated whenever the tide was
changing. Immense waves destroyed the mill in it’s first winter
in 1853. Richardson rebuilt the mill as a steam operation, but
then lost the land in 1854 because his grant was not recognized
by the U.S. Land Commission.
A sawmill would continue to operate in Albion over the next 75
years. New owners modernized the sawmill in 1854. By 1861 the
growing town had a hotel, livery stable and mercantile near the
mill. Workers lived in cabins on the crowded river flats. When
the second mill burned in 1867, it was promptly replaced with a
larger, better equipped mill. As the town outgrew the crowded
river flats, neighborhoods marched up Michigan Hill to the north
and Snob Hill to the south, vying for dominance. In 1879 the
worst fire of all consumed the sawmill and ten other buildings.
Once again the mill and town were rebuilt.
The huge saws were powered by steam, generated in wood-burning
boilers, much of the heavy machinery ran on crude bearings that
were always subject to overheating, the buildings were built of
light wood and the grounds were jam-packed with lumber, sawdust,
wood trimmings and other flammables. Steam-powered (and later
gasoline-powered) equipment, both stationary and mobile, was
scattered about among all of this. The whole facility was criss-crossed
by a narrow-gauge steam railroad. Fire was a regular occurrence.
In order to survive, the mill organized and equipped it's own
substantial fire brigade which aggressively attacked all fires,
thus keeping most of them from becoming conflagrations.
Nevertheless, major fires were not rare and in Albion, over the
years, the entire mill complex burned to the ground several
times .
In 1889, a 1200-foot wharf reached out to deep water in the
rocky harbor. (You can still see the piling off the beach).
Miles Standish (a direct descendent of the pilgrim of the same
name) and Henry Hickey bought the lumber company in 1891. When
another fire razed the fourth mill and most of the town in 1900,
Albion rebuilt yet again. Southern Pacific Railroad bought the
Albion mill operation in 1907 to provide wood for railroads they
were building in Mexico. They expanded the small logging railway
around Albion, extending lines to Wendling (now Navarro) and
Christine in Anderson Valley, and up the Albion River to Keen's
Summit, not far from Comptche.
When Smeaton Chase came through in 1911, he hoped to see a
microcosm of his own English homeland. He found
. . . a fine little town, all buzzing and humming with life,
steam whizzing, saws shrieking, locomotive bustling about with
cars of lumber, trim schooner at
wharf, men wiping perspiring brows, and everything thriving.
Down at the river's mouth was a little purple bay, all a-glitter
with wind and surf.
Outside events changed all of this, beginning with the economic
collapse of 1929. Mills all over Northern California closed
abruptly - in many cases in the middle of what had been just an
ordinary day - never to reopen. Workers, including firefighters,
were permanently laid off and the majority of them left the
area. The Albion mill closed forever in 1928, the railroad shut
down in 1930, and Albion's heyday passed into history. Albion
survived as a farming and ranching community, with most
residents living up on the ridges.
The small village of Albion continues to straddles the Albion
River, and is now connected by the historic Albion River Bridge.
This bridge, built in 1944 during the second World War, towers
120 feet above the river, and was constructed of salvaged wood
because steel and concrete were scarce due to wartime shortages.
It remains in service as the last wooden bridge along the Coast
Highway.
Economic conditions improved somewhat as logging, fishing and
ranching again became profitable, and the population slowly
increased, though the mill never reopened and there were still
far fewer people in the area than in the early decades of the
century. In 1959 a group of long-time residents decided that a
fire department was urgently needed. Albion residents pooled
their own resources and purchased a seven- year old pickup truck
and mounted a gasoline-powered pump, a water tank and a
hose-reel into its bed. At the same time they formed an
all-volunteer fire department, comprised of about a dozen men.
Dispatch was by audible siren and a "telephone tree."
During the 1960's cheap land and the isolated location brought
many urban refugees to the area. They coined the term Albion
Nation to describe their independent and divergent lifestyles.
Marijuana farming brought a new kind of prosperity briefly, but
it soon collapsed in theft and violence, then heavy police
surveillance. Feminist separatists and other communes revived
some of the old farms and ranches, and many of their originators
still live here today. In the '70s wildly successful Albion's
People's Fairs celebrated the cultural renaissance and Country
Women magazine spread the gospel. Today these manifestations of
Albion's cultural diversity have become history, but a healthy
independent spirit endures.
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Albion Today
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This close-knit community supports a small but interesting
selection of lodging, restaurants and shops and services. South
of town before the Navarro River is the historic Fensalden Inn,
once a stage coach stop. On the north side of the river, is The
Albion River Inn with it's internationally recognized
restaurant, cooking & photography classes and great views.
Another fine restaurant, the Ledford House is just west, across
highway with live music and a spectacular view of the ocean.
Further north is the charming Heritage House and Restaurant,
where the Alan Alda & Ellen Berkin movie "Same Time Next Year"
was filmed.
Below the bridge, on the flats are Albion River Campground and
another campground, "Schooner Landing" and a seasonal café.
Across the river is a college sponsored biological field
station. A small fishing fleet operates out of the harbor
harvesting salmon, bottom fish and urchins. Many Abalone divers
also use these facilities along with canoes and kayaks that
enjoy the tidal Albion River or investigate the cove or beyond.
The river is tidal for more than 3 miles. If you try your paddle
in the river , it’s best to time your trip with the direction of
the tide.
The village has quaint homes, perched high above the river, they
enjoy breathtaking views of the boat slips and fishing docks
below, the historic wooden bridge spanning the river, and the
ever changing Pacific beyond. (January to April the whales
parade just offshore) In the village you will find, a good
full-service grocery store and deli, hardware store, and post
office.
Up the Albion Ridge is home to many locals with houses hidden
among redwoods, woods and a portion of the North Coast's
ecologically unique Pygmy Forest. Several interesting nurseries
supplying local and regional markets are located here. In a
matter of minutes one can travel from the ocean bluffs, through
the Pygmy forest, and on to the deep redwood glades.
People who enjoy the quiet beauty of this area, coupled with the
nearby convenience of Mendocino and Fort Bragg, like to call
Albion home.
- excerpted from various sources |
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